How to build a timber privacy screen for an outdoor area

🪚 How to Build a Timber Privacy Screen

How do you build a freestanding timber privacy screen?

This guide covers a freestanding timber privacy screen measuring approximately 2400 mm wide × 1800 mm high, with horizontal slats and three posts. It is designed as a practical DIY project, but the posts and footings must be checked for local wind, soil and site conditions before construction.

The example uses 70 × 19 mm hardwood slats with 10 mm gaps. You can adjust the appearance, but do not assume the same post and footing details will suit a larger or more exposed screen.

What skills and time do you need to build a timber privacy screen?

⏱️ Skill Level: Intermediate — approximately 2 working days, plus concrete curing time. A beginner with basic carpentry skills can complete the work with a helper and appropriate footing advice.

What tools do you need to build a timber privacy screen?

What timber, posts and fixings do you need for an outdoor privacy screen?

🪵 Materials

For the 2400 × 1800 mm example:

💡 Pro tip: Footing dimensions above are for estimating only, not a universal design. Wind exposure, soil, screen porosity and local requirements can substantially change the footing and post sizes.

Safety Requirements

⚠️ Safety

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: 1️⃣ Plan the position and layout

Mark out the screen at 2400 mm wide and 1800 mm above finished ground level. Confirm the boundary, underground services, clearance to structures and any required approvals.

For this example, the outside faces of the two end posts align with the ends of the 2400 mm slats. Centre the third post between them. Check the chosen position provides the desired privacy without blocking access or creating a drainage problem.

💡 Pro tip: Temporarily mark the screen outline with stakes and string. View it from both the outdoor area and neighbouring sightlines before committing to the holes.

Step 2: 2️⃣ Confirm the post and footing design

Arrange for the post size, footing diameter, depth and embedment to be assessed for the site. A privacy screen can attract substantial wind load, even when gaps are present between slats.

Use the 90 × 90 mm H4 posts and indicative footing dimensions in this guide only if they are confirmed as suitable. Check the design specifies how the posts are positioned in the concrete, including any required bottom cover.

Step 3: 3️⃣ Set out and dig the holes

Run a stringline along the intended post line. Mark the two end-post positions and the centre post, then excavate the holes to the approved diameter and depth.

Keep the hole bottoms on firm, undisturbed ground unless the footing design specifies otherwise. Remove loose spoil and confirm each hole is correctly positioned before placing the posts.

Step 4: 4️⃣ Install and brace the posts

Place each post in its footing according to the approved detail. Set the outside faces of the end posts 2400 mm apart, with the centre post midway between them.

Check that:

Brace the posts securely so they cannot move during the pour.

Step 5: 5️⃣ Concrete the posts

Mix and place the concrete to the product instructions and footing design. Compact it carefully around each post without disturbing the alignment.

Finish the concrete at the top so water drains away from the timber. Recheck the post positions and plumb while the concrete is still workable.

Leave the braces in place and allow the concrete to cure as directed by the concrete manufacturer and footing designer before installing the slats or exposing the screen to load. Concrete generally develops its specified strength over approximately 28 days; do not assume it is ready for full loading immediately.

Step 6: 6️⃣ Prepare the slats

Check the 22 slats for straightness, damage and consistent length. Cut them to 2400 mm if required, then lightly sand sharp edges and remove machining dust.

Apply the selected exterior coating to all faces and cut ends as directed by the coating manufacturer. Some hardwoods require weathering or preparation before coating—follow the specific product instructions.

💡 Pro tip: Coat the backs and ends before installation, while they are easy to reach. Merbau can release tannins that stain adjacent paving and finishes, particularly when new.

Step 7: 7️⃣ Mark the slat positions

Starting 50 mm above finished ground level, mark the position of the bottom slat. For the example layout, install 22 slats at 70 mm high with 21 gaps of 10 mm:

With the bottom slat 50 mm above ground, the top of the upper slat aligns with the 1800 mm post height. Check actual timber widths before fixing and adjust the layout if required.

Step 8: 8️⃣ Fix the slats

Clamp the bottom slat across the front faces of the posts and check it is level. Predrill the hardwood and fix it to each post with two stainless-steel screws per post, keeping the fixings appropriately spaced from the slat edges and ends.

Use 10 mm spacers between slats and work upwards. Check level regularly rather than relying on the spacers alone. The centre post supports each slat and helps reduce movement.

Step 9: 9️⃣ Inspect and finish

Remove the temporary braces once the concrete has cured sufficiently. Check every fixing, trim or finish post tops as appropriate, and apply any remaining coating in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions.

Clean the area and dispose of offcuts and treated-timber waste according to local requirements. Do not burn treated timber.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pro Tips

💡 Use a pair of identical 10 mm spacers to keep gaps consistent, but check the slats with a level as you progress.

💡 Predrill hardwood slats to reduce splitting, especially near the ends.

💡 Choose straight, dry slats and store them flat before installation to reduce distortion.

💡 Inspect the coating and fixings annually, and maintain the finish according to the product manufacturer’s recommendations.

Recommended Tools

🔧 Recommended Tools